Growth Factors in Skincare

Dr. Sarah Chen
PhD, Molecular Biology
Growth factors are naturally occurring signaling proteins that regulate fundamental cellular processes including proliferation, migration, differentiation, and survival [1,5].
Definition
Growth factors are naturally occurring signaling proteins that regulate fundamental cellular processes including proliferation, migration, differentiation, and survival [1][5]. In the context of skincare and regenerative dermatology, growth factors are the molecular mediators that translate stimuli — such as PDRN receptor activation or wound signals — into measurable tissue repair and rejuvenation outcomes [1][2].
Key Growth Factors in Skin Biology
VEGF (Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor)
The primary regulator of angiogenesis (new blood vessel formation) in the skin [1][3][5]. VEGF is directly upregulated by PDRN through A2A receptor activation, and its increased expression is responsible for the improved tissue perfusion and nutrient delivery observed after PDRN treatment [2][3]. In photoaged skin, reduced VEGF expression contributes to the sallow, devitalized appearance that PDRN therapy helps reverse [3].
EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor)
Stimulates keratinocyte proliferation and migration, accelerating epidermal renewal and wound re-epithelialization [1][5]. EGF is widely used as a topical skincare ingredient in its own right, particularly in Korean cosmeceuticals. While PDRN does not directly contain EGF, the tissue environment created by PDRN's A2A receptor activation enhances endogenous EGF signaling [2][4].
FGF (Fibroblast Growth Factor)
A family of growth factors that stimulate fibroblast proliferation, collagen production, and extracellular matrix remodeling [1][5]. FGF-2 (basic FGF) is particularly relevant to dermal regeneration. PDRN treatment increases fibroblast activity, which amplifies autocrine FGF signaling in the dermis [2][4].
TGF-β (Transforming Growth Factor Beta)
A multifunctional growth factor that regulates collagen synthesis, immune modulation, and tissue remodeling [1][5]. TGF-β drives the deposition of new collagen fibers — the structural protein responsible for skin firmness and elasticity. The collagen-building effects of PDRN are mediated in part through enhanced TGF-β signaling in activated fibroblasts [4].
PDGF (Platelet-Derived Growth Factor)
Released by platelets during wound healing, PDGF recruits fibroblasts and smooth muscle cells to repair sites and stimulates their proliferation [1][5]. PDGF is relevant to understanding combination therapies such as PRP (platelet-rich plasma) used alongside PDRN in clinical practice [1].
Growth Factors and PDRN: The Connection
PDRN does not itself contain growth factors. Instead, PDRN activates cellular pathways that cause the body's own cells to produce growth factors at elevated levels [2][3][6]. This is a critical distinction:
- Exogenous growth factors (applied topically or injected) — Provide growth factor proteins directly but face challenges with stability, penetration, and dosing [1]
- PDRN (endogenous growth factor stimulation) — Triggers the body's own cells to produce growth factors in physiologically appropriate concentrations and locations [2][6]
The A2A receptor activation by PDRN has been shown to upregulate VEGF expression in endothelial cells [3], stimulate fibroblast-derived growth factor production [2][4], and create a pro-regenerative tissue environment that supports coordinated growth factor signaling [2][6].
Growth Factors in Topical Skincare
Growth factors are used directly in skincare products, though their efficacy depends on several factors [1][4]:
- Molecular size — Most growth factors are large proteins (6-25 kDa) that penetrate the skin barrier poorly without delivery systems [1]
- Stability — Growth factor proteins are susceptible to degradation by heat, light, and enzymes, making formulation challenging [1]
- Source — Growth factors in cosmetics are derived from recombinant technology, plant sources, snail secretion, or conditioned media from stem cell cultures [4]
PDRN offers an alternative strategy: rather than delivering fragile growth factor proteins through the skin barrier, PDRN's small DNA fragments penetrate more readily and stimulate growth factor production from within [2][4][6].
Clinical Relevance
The growth factor cascade initiated by PDRN treatment produces the clinical outcomes observed in studies [2][3][4]:
| Growth Factor | Effect | Clinical Outcome |
|---|---|---|
| VEGF | Angiogenesis | Improved skin glow and perfusion |
| FGF | Fibroblast activation | Increased dermal thickness |
| TGF-β | Collagen synthesis | Improved firmness and elasticity |
| EGF (indirect) | Keratinocyte renewal | Smoother skin texture |
Understanding growth factors helps explain why PDRN's effects are progressive and cumulative — the growth factor-driven remodeling processes require weeks to months to produce visible structural changes in the skin [2][4].
References
- [1]Barrientos S, Stojadinovic O, Golinko MS, Brem H, Tomic-Canic M. Growth factors and cytokines in wound healing. Wound Repair Regen. 2008;16(5):585-601. doi:10.1111/j.1524-475X.2008.00410.x
- [2]Squadrito F, Bitto A, Irrera N, et al.. Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use of PDRN. Curr Pharm Des. 2017;23(27):3948-3957. doi:10.2174/1381612823666170516153716
- [3]Galeano M, Bitto A, Altavilla D, et al.. Polydeoxyribonucleotide stimulates angiogenesis and wound healing in the genetically diabetic mouse. Wound Repair Regen. 2008;16(2):208-217. doi:10.1111/j.1524-475X.2008.00361.x
- [4]Colangelo MT, Galli C, Giannelli M. Polydeoxyribonucleotide: A Promising Biological Platform for Dermal Regeneration. Curr Pharm Des. 2020;26(17):2049-2056.
- [5]Werner S, Grose R. Regulation of wound healing by growth factors and cytokines. Physiol Rev. 2003;83(3):835-870. doi:10.1152/physrev.2003.83.3.835
- [6]Veronesi F, Dallari D, Sabbioni G, Carubbi C, Martini L, Fini M. Polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRNs): From Physical Chemistry to Biological Activities and Clinical Applications. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;18(9):1927. doi:10.3390/ijms18091927